CAT FOR LIFE!

How To Make Your Cat a Lifetime Family Member
Adding a cat to your life is more like adopting a child than acquiring a possession. A cat is sentient; he’s aware of himself and of you. He has fears and desires – not always the same ones as you, although he’ll do a masterful job of getting you to eventually see things his way! A cat is a delightful enigma: a lone hunter who’s also unabashedly affectionate. Give him a good home and a long life. Be charmed by his feline grace and by all means join in when he decides it’s time for irrational exhuberance!
Make the Commitment
Before adopting your cat, resolve to make him a member of the family for his whole life. His health and well-being are in your hands. Take care of him as he goes through his ups and downs. He will return the favor.
Basics
Good food and water. It actually doesn’t cost more to feed your cat premium cat food. There’s less filler and your cat will be healthier. You and your cat will come up with a good rotation. It’s vitally important to provide your cat with fresh, preferably filtered, water at all times.
Veterinary care. You need to be comfortable with your vet. Be an extension of your vet’s eyes and ears by getting to know your cat’s normal behavior and giving him regular mini health inspections. But don’t play doctor – call your vet if you’re at all suspicious or you notice a marked or acute change in your cat’s routine.
Litter box. Squeaky clean. No strong-smelling cleaners. Pleasant, quiet location. Approved by Mr. Cat.
Cost. You need to make a financial commitment, too. Plan on about 500 dollars a year per cat. Food, veterinary care, a litter box and litter, scratching posts, a cat carrier, and feeding bowls all cost money; don’t skimp on these basic necessities. Be prepared for increased medical bills when kitty is older. Pet insurance may be a viable cost-saving option. You also want to buy nice things like cat furniture, toys, and treats to enrich his daily life.
Form a More Perfect Union
Know your cat. Spend time with your cat. Learn the meaning of his different meows. Observe his many non-verbal signals; that’s primarily how your cat communicates. He uses his tail, ears, and eyes, and other body language to express himself. Watch for the sheet on “How to Talk ‘Cat’.”
Play with Your Cat. Perhaps no other activity has such a profound effect on the nature of a cat-human relationship. Play brings the hunt inside. You get to learn your cat’s hunting behaviors, read and anticipate his intentions, and script scenarios for him in real time. By making the toy act like prey and responding to your cat’s moves and signals, the two of you are practically hunting together. You’re an honorary cat!
Accommodate his natural behaviors. Make your house cat-friendly. Cats need to scratch; one tall sturdy scratching post is the bare minimum – more is better. Delight your cat by buying or making a cat tree; he’ll love having a cats-only place where he can climb, jump, scratch, play, sleep, and birdwatch.
Help him when he has a problem. If your cat stops using his litter box, it’s due to a medical condition, something he dislikes about the litter box, or stress. Investigate all three possible causes in approximately that order. He wants things to get back to normal just like you do. If your cat scratches you, it could be misplaced aggression or lack of knowing that your hand is not a toy. Treat each problem with empathy.
Praise your cat. Your cat likes the sound of your voice; it’s soothing. Each day tell him he’s a great kitty.
Twenty Years from Now…
With good care and a little luck, your cat can live twenty years. If you’re in your thirties when you adopt your cat, he’ll be living with you when the kids have all graduated from college. If you’re in your fifties now, your cat, the one with much boundless energy now, will still be there when you’re in your seventies, retired. He’ll be an old cat by then, probably no longer able to jump to his favorite places. Sometimes he might not make it to his litter box. The two of you will accept each other’s occasional mishaps. You’ll help him up to your lap, and he’ll purr just as loudly and happily for you as always.

How To Introduce Your New Cat to Other Cats

“Slowly” and “Patiently” are the Operative Words
Although sometimes cats will get along swimmingly in just a couple of hours, you should not be surprised to have a battle on your hands if you try to introduce your new cat too quickly. The time you spend on this all-important process will be saved exponentially by not having to break up conflicts every day.
The Steps to Take
? Set up a comfortable “safe room” for New Cat. Put her food, water, litter box (not near the food), scratching post, toys, and bed or other sleeping mat there.
? Expect a great deal of “hissy-spitty” behavior from both cats. This is natural and normal; they are just starting to explore their “pecking order.”
? Scent is very important for cats. Let each of them smell the other indirectly, by rubbing a towel on one and letting the other smell it. They will soon accept the scent as a normal part of the house.
? Once or twice, switch roles. Put New Cat in the normal living quarters, and let your resident cat sniff out the new cat’s Safe Room.
? After a day or so, let the two cats sniff each other through a baby-gate or through a barely-opened door. Gauge the rate at which they seem to be acclimating to each other
? When you think they’re ready, let them mingle under your supervision. Ignore hissing and growling, but you may have to intervene if a physical battle breaks out. Again, take this step slowly, depending on how quickly they get along. If they do seem to tolerate each other, even begrudgingly, praise both of them profusely.
? Make their first activities together enjoyable ones so they will learn to associate pleasure with the presence of the other cat. Feeding (with their own separate dishes), playing, and petting. Keep up with the praise.
? If things start going badly, separate them again, and then start where you left off. If one cat seems to consistently be the aggressor, give her some “time out,” then try again a little bit later.
The introduction can take from two hours to six months, so don’t be discouraged if your cats don’t seem to get along well at first. Often the case is that they will eventually be “best buddies.”
Factors to Consider
? If you are thinking of getting a kitten to keep an older cat company, you might want to consider two kittens. They will be able to keep each other company while the older cat learns to love them
? If you already have more than one cat, use the “alpha cat” for preliminary introductions. Once he/she accepts the newcomer, the other resident cats will quickly fall in line.
? Lots of snuggle-time and attention is indicated for all cats concerned during this period. Remember, the prime goal is to get them to associate pleasure with the presence of each other.
? If possible, ask a friend to deliver the new cat to your home, in her cage. You can act nonchalant, as if it’s no big deal, then later let your resident cat(s) think it’s their idea to welcome the newcomer.
With patience and perseverance, you can turn what might appear at first as an “armed camp” into a haven of peace for your integrated feline family. Congratulations on giving another cat in need a permanent home!

How To Prevent Litter Box Problems
Under normal conditions, your cat will like to use her litter box. Changes in your cat’s litter box behavior can almost always be traced to a medical condition, stress, or something she dislikes about her litter box environment. Fortunately, a little know-how and preventive maintenance can greatly reduce the chance of litter box problems.
But First…
? Never punish or yell at your cat for not using her litter box; that only makes things worse.
? Any acute or prolonged signs of litter box difficulties, such as urinating more frequently, avoiding the litter box, or straining, could indicate an urgent medical condition; call your vet right away.
The Perfect Litter Box Environment
? Location. Put the litter box in a pleasant location: easy to access, away from noisy or high-traffic areas, out of the dog’s and baby’s reach. Some cats, especially older or handicapped cats, prefer a litter box on each floor of the house. Beware of putting the litter box directly on soft carpet; for some cats, the adjacent carpet feels like litter. Use a minimum of one litter box per cat.
? Litter. Every cat has a favorite litter – work with your cat to find out her preference. When in doubt, start with an unscented clumping litter. Although the jury’s still out on this, if you have a kitten, you may want to avoid clumping litters that contain sodium bentonite. Keep kitty’s box filled with about two inches of litter, unless directed otherwise by the package. When changing litters, do it gradually over several days, or fill a second box with the new litter.
? Type of box. Some cats don’t care for covered litter boxes. If you use a covered box, remember to scoop and clean often, as odors can be trapped inside. Some cat owners like automatic-cleaning litter boxes, others don’t. As with litter, your cat will help guide you in your selection.
? Clean! Scoop clumping litter at least once a day, other litters as directed. Wash the litter box and replace the litter weekly. Use a mild soap and rinse well. An occasional 1-part-in-10 bleach solution is fine if you rinse thoroughly. Stay away from ammonia and citrus-scented or strong-smelling cleaners.
? Routine. Once you and kitty find a system that you’re both comfortable with, “stay the course.”
Minimize Stress
Play with your cat each day. Make sure she has some convenient scratching posts that she uses. Let her sleep undisturbed in a comfy place. Give her some nice views, fun cardboard boxes to explore, a cat tree (or reasonable facsimile) to climb, and a small family of partially hidden catnip mice to discover – accommodate her natural curiosity safely. Strive for a harmonious household. Tell your cat what a great kitty she is, and give her affection each day – but don’t invade her space when she prefers to be left alone.
Cats derive comfort from a predictable routine; if major changes such as a move or a new baby are inevitable, gently and gradually acclimate kitty, and maintain her routine as much as possible.
Monitor Kitty’s Litter Box Habits
Get to know your cat’s eating, drinking, and bathroom habits, and be alert to any changes. When you scoop, do a onceover on the litter box contents. Occasionally watch kitty in the act, as long as you don’t bother her. The urine amount emptied should be more than tiny; stools should be brown, not immediately hard, and not runny. Your cat should seem comfortable when using her litter box and digging in the litter. There is some room for natural variation in these behaviors – when in doubt, call your vet.
Special Cases
? Kittens should be introduced to the litter box early. If your kitten goes outside the box, wipe up the waste with a paper towel, put the towel in the box, and help kitty cover up – she’ll catch on.
? Declawed cats might be more reluctant to dig in the litter, and may require a lighter litter.
? Older, handicapped, and injured cats will appreciate more and shallower litter boxes.

Cat-Proofing Your Home
Kittens are inveterate snoops and their favorite toys might be harmful to them: things like the cords on blinds, electrical cords, or yummy (and toxic) plants to nibble. They can also do a certain amount of damage with their little needle claws by climbing curtains or your good furniture. Therefore a certain amount of cat proofing will be necessary.
The first thing you need to do is place yourself physically down at the level of a cat, by sitting or even lying on the floor. Look up and around at all the interesting things to play with. From this vantage point you can make a list of hazards and breakables that you will need to deal with.
1. Look around your house first, at high shelves and low cupboards and hidden nooks. Do you see things that kitty might break, or harmful substances she might ingest?
2. If you're into needlework, keep your supplies in a closed container. Needles and thread might appear to be fine playthings, but can be fatal if your kitten swallows them.
3. Fold and secure your window blinds cord with a rubber band, out of kitty's reach. If she gets tangled up in it, she could strangle.
4. If you don't want to find your floors littered with garbage, invest in covered wastebaskets and kitchen garbage containers.
5. Always keep the door to your clothes dryer closed, and double-check inside before using it. Cats like to find dark, warm places to sleep, and the results could be tragic.
6. Keep the floor clean of stray rubber bands, ribbon and twine. All are hazardous when ingested by a kitten.
7. Keep cupboard doors and dresser drawers securely closed. Cats can find all kinds of mischief inside, and can be injured if you close a drawer and the kitten is behind it.
8. Cloth drapes are better left out of reach of your furry "curtain-climber". Tie them up securely until your kitten is trained to a scratching post.
9. Keep your toilet lid down at all times. Better yet, keep your bathroom off-limits to your kitten unless you absolutely have to keep her litterbox there.
10. Do not keep your kitten in the garage, and always keep the doors closed. Anti-freeze is very tasty to animals, and is just one of the common poisonous substances found in garages.
11. Do not keep your kitten in the garage, and always keep the doors closed. Anti-freeze is very tasty to animals, and is just one of the common poisonous substances found in garages.
12. There are a number of household plants poisonous to cats.
13. Remove all breakable valuables from high shelves and store them in a cabinet with a door.
14. Cover electric cords, such as the tangle from your computer, with covers sold for that purpose. Caution: wrapping electric cords could be a fire hazard.